Almost hidden in plain sight along Lopez Jaena Street in Jaro is an unassuming pizza joint. At first, it seems to proudly announce its specialty – Chicago Style Pizza but a closer look would reveal it’s actually the name of the restaurant. Initially, it never sparked my interest but when a fellow blogger, “Inday Hami” (www.iloveiloilo.com) revealed some very interesting notes (aside from her good reviews of the pizza), I became curious and wondered what makes a Chicago-style pizza different from all other pizzas.
A Chicago-style pizza is a deep-dish pizza style developed in Chicago, USA in 1943. It has a buttery crust up to three inches tall at the edge, slightly higher than the large amounts of cheese and chunky tomato sauce, acting as a large bowl. “And unlike most pizzas, it cannot be folded and usually cannot be eaten with hand.” answers Father Espiridion Celis, owner of the pizzeria. Father Boy as he is fondly called, is among the most familiar faces of the clergy in Iloilo City. He’s often seen on TV sharing insights on current issues affecting the community – both secular or religious. He leads the parish of Mandurriao but prior to this he was in charge for youth ministry for almost 20 years. He was involved in many youth activities and most of the time, it requires nourishing to which he would easily cook and serve pizza and pasta.
Having lived in Chicago for 18 years, cooking became one of his passions and these Italian specialties became his sort of obsession. Not only would he appreciate the food he tastes in restaurants, but also tries making them at home. He shares that during his stay in the Windy City., he made a lot of trials and errors researching and trying to emulate the best pizzas in town – mainly from Pizzeria Uno and Gino’s. At times, workers would gladly share some tips but during desperate times “I would even rummage around their garbage cans just to check the exact brands they used” he says with a laugh.
Back here, in Iloilo City, venturing into the food business had more than a “calling”. He shares that the parish sends some of its youth volunteers to school; two taking up HRM, one Criminology, another Marine Eng’g and one still in High School.
To augment the schooling expenses of these students at the same time practicing his passion, he opened Chicago Style Pizza in Jaro in 2009 with takeout and deliveries only and a year later it expanded to have a dine-in area. He oversees and manages the pizza place but entirely independent from his church obligations. “It has official receipts, BIR and other permits like other businesses” he explains.
These youths, in turn, run the pizza place on top of their school and church obligations; some serve as choir singers while others as “sacristans”. And yes, they are paid by the hour starting 3pm (that’s after school hours) onwards.So what would one expect at CSP? Father Boy continues “Pizza and pasta made with the freshest ingredients almost exactly like those served in Chicago.” But instead of more talks, he brought out his restaurant’s specialty – Chicago Deep Dish Pan Pizza. And to show the difference it came in both premium and budget variants..
A meal in a slice as he describes, the original recipe consists of nine delicious toppings. Mozzarella and cheddar chesses, pepperoni, salami, Italian sausage, mushrooms, tomatoes, onions and sweet bell peppers on top of a special pizza sauce loaded with herbs and spices. It comes on a 14-inch thick, crisp and chewy high fiber whole wheat flour dough with no MSG added. By premium, it means a two-inch deep dish with 400 grams liberal amounts of toppings while budget comes in lesser amount but still the same good taste like that in Chicago
But things are different here in Iloilo as taste, price and availability of some ingredients are put into consideration. Father Boy reveals that the restaurant makes its own mozzarella cheese from fresh water buffalo milk. Furthermore, the tomato sauce used is also homemade as one can really taste (and see) real tomatoes in every bite. He not only saves by making his own but also assures in serving the freshest and healthiest ingredients.
They also have thin crust pizza version of the pizza for those who prefer a thinner crust and a personal pan pizza good for two. During Sundays, they sell these pizzas by the slice to mass goers in their parish.
Complementing pizza is, of course, pasta. Father Boy gladly shares some interesting stories about them. Take for example their Puttanesca. A spicy, tangy and a little bit salty Italian pasta dish regarded as the modern reflection of the bounty of the sea. It has anchovies blended with capers, black olives and fresh tomatoes. Instead of buying canned anchovies, Father Boy makes them right at home thus serving a tasty and authentic Italian specialty for less.
It was a priest friend who shared the Carbonara recipe – spaghetti with rich white sauce of eggs, milk, cheese and bacon bits. Father Boy makes very sure of the cleanliness in the preparation. He shares that the eggs are meticulously cleaned with soap and water and blanched with boiling water for 20 seconds before storing them in the fridge.
Even the simple spaghetti with meat sauce - made with 100% pure ground beef, mushrooms, cheese and spices, has a story to tell. He concocted this recipe dish back around 1989 for Jerusalem mass-related activity for the youth ministry and the legacy lives on at the restaurant.
Not to be left out is the authentic Chicago ballpark Hotdog. These are standard hotdogs served during ballgames, a bit nostalgic for Father Boy. Unparalleled in texture, flavour and colour this assemblage consists of warm beef hotdog, soft steamed bun, mustard (no ketchup please!), garlic dill pickle, hot peppers, sweet green neon relish, onion, tomato and lip smacking celery salt. The latter also being home made – rock salt mixed with celery seeds.
Father Boy still has big dreams for this food venture as plans of opening bigger and better restaurant are currently on the drawing board. This will then continue his “mission” of bringing an authentic and heavenly slice of Chicago here in Iloilo. And I’ll just be here to continue in spreading “the word”.
Chicago Style Pizza is at 202 Lopez Jaena Street, Jaro, Iloilo City and is open Tuesdays through Sundays from 3pm to 10pm. For deliveries, please call 320, 2235
This article appeared in the Lifestyle Section of The News Today last May 19, 2011.