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Iloilo: Beyond batchoy

This feature published by the Manila Standard Today narrates how gastronomy played an important role in the author's recent visit to Iloilo City. It simply shows that food is very much a part of the city's "tourism" and as the title says it's "Beyond batchoy". Enjoy this article (written by Nana Nadal) more with some photos from Flavours of Iloilo archives.

Mention Iloilo and batchoy is not far behind. With everyone sending me off to the province with “enjoy the batchoy” messages, I was half expecting to live on the noodle soup for the duration of my three-day stay. After devouring a bowlful paired with soft white puto at Ted’s Old Timer La Paz Batchoy along Valeria Street, I realized that I had nothing to worry about, I would have been perfectly happy eating it for several meals. I’m no batchoy connoisseur but I think Ted’s 65 years in the business and 34 branches nationwide prove that their recipe’s a winner. I had another round of the dish at Days Hotel, where I was able to put together my own version at the make-your-own-batchoy station of the breakfast buffet.

But Iloilo is not all Batchoy, as revealed to us by Ram Villaluna. Iloilo’s resident celebrity chef took time off running Cindy’s Restaurant and Catering to play tour guide to me and my travel buddy, Sonja Ocampo as we dined our way through Iloilo. There was so much to try that we had double lunches and meriendas.

Breakthrough is a place no tourist should miss. Not its beach backdrop, not its aligue rice, not its scallops, and most especially not its divine lechon! I am no fan of the roasted pig and never understood people’s enthusiasm for it during parties but boy oh boy, it was an entirely different story for me in Iloilo! The skin was wonderfully crunchy, the meat was so tender and every part was extremely tasty that I did not even think of asking for sauce! We ordered lechon again at Tatoy’s Manokan and it was as sinfully yummy, I just could not get enough! At both restaurants, we were introduced to this elongated shellfish called diwal (angel wing clam). Cooked to delectable goodness, it was in a tight match with the lechon for the top spot in my list of favorites.

Another restaurant that strongly made an impression on me is Barrio Inasal. Just thinking about their Chicken Inasal makes me want to get on a plane and fly to Iloilo. Really the best I have ever tasted! Super juicy and flavorful that no toyomansi-vinegar concoction was necessary. I literally kept dreaming about it and their crispy pata for days after the trip! I wish the owner would expand the business and add more branches, starting with the space next to our house!
If I can have one more wish, I would also love to have Dulgies Desserts And Café within reach, in Manila. The charming little store sells mouthwatering home-made goodies. It was so difficult to choose from its wide array of cakes that we ended up trying too many items. Not that I had any reason to complain, after all, each one was worth every additional inch around my waist. I particularly enjoyed the deliciously moist Chocolate Cake, the creamy Tres Leches and the irresistible Pecan Cheesecake. The vibe of the place just encouraged one to kick back and indulge. We must have stayed for hours, enjoying every bite and the casual banter. Everything is reasonably priced despite the premium ingredients that go into each creation.

Another place that those partial to sweets would have to check out is Nothing But Desserts. Located at the commercial complex dubbed as The Avenue, Nothing But Desserts is a delightful destination, with its candy-striped walls and cozy seats. The one-stop desserts shop displays meticulously-crafted cakes, trifles and everything in between. One look at the counter and you’re swept by this urge to order everything! It’s all sooo pretty, especially the dainty chocolate bites in attractive shapes and prints that are too cute to eat. But the moment you finally decide to pop one in your mouth, you would want another and another and another. In the same manner that you would want to scoop after scoop after scoop of every single flavor of their Mokkilato gelato. Among the numerous options, the Mascarpone and Tiramisu were what I liked best.

The dishes offered next door are similarly appetizing. Any Pinoy would feel at home at Bauhinia, with its menu of Filipino dishes with a creative twist. Mundane as it may seem, I was totally blown away by their Monggo at Sili. It was comfort food at its finest! I also liked the shooters of Kinilaw na Tanigue at Tuna. And because I knew I would be up all night wondering about it, we just had to order the boneless pork belly roulade served with home made liver sauce or what they label as Lechon de Rondalla. It lived up to our expectations.But what really impressed me in that neighbourhood was Amalfi. The Italian restaurant’s stylish interiors makes it ideal for serious wining and dining. And being the only place in Iloilo that serves foie gras and Wagyu, it is hands down the venue for splurging and racking up points—whether with a girl or a client. They have excellent melts-in-your-mouth seabass and salmon in their menu too. I would really love to go back there and have bigger bites of everything that I sampled.
A few steps away is Mojave Grill and Steak House. While its menu boasts of items that carnivores would go crazy over, a good selection of salads and seafood is also listed. I normally do not like doing any sort of labor while eating but the assemble-your-own-burrito plate was something I appreciated tremendously. I would’ve had the entire serving for myself if I had not known that char-grilled 21-oz French Cut Rib Steak was up next. I am glad I left tummy space for it. Certified Angus, the beef was top quality and cooked to ideal medium goodness.
Indeed Batchoy is not the only dish that reigns supreme in Iloilo. The trip was a revelation and we were excited to bring back the good news to our friends in Manila as much as we were looking forward to sharing our loot from Tinapayan Bakeshop. Munching on the butterscotch and galletas on the plane going back home, we began planning for our return to Iloilo.
  • Days Hotel - General Luna corner Bonifacio Drive, (033) 3373297
  • Breakthrough sa Baybay - Sto. Niño Norte, Arevalo, (033) 3373207 / 3364755
  • Tatoy’s Manokan and Seafoods - Sto. Niño Sur, Arevalo (033) 337-1360 / 337-4276
  • Dulgies - Lasalette Building, Valeria St., (033) 3383701
  • Barrio Inasal - E. Lopez Street, Jaro, (033) 3372482 / 3293638
  • The Avenue - Glicerio Pison Ave., Mandurriao
  • Nothing But Desserts (033) 3295815
  • Bauhinia (033) 3296951
  • Amalfi (033) 3295289
  • Mojave (033) 3295616
  • Tinapayan Bakeshop - Iloilo Supermart, The Atrium, General Luna corner Bonifacio Drive

Amalfi and Mojave photos
courtesy of SneezeNiz

Article credit
Beyond batchoy by Nana Nadal
Manila Standard Today
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