ILOILO is one of the provinces of the Philippines that has always been respected and loved for its local flavors. Franchises of restaurants capitalizing on batchoy and chicken inasal, two of Iloilo’s famous dishes, have sprouted all over Metro Manila. But as many Filipino foodies would argue, nothing tastes like the original.
Here are some of the originals as shown to me by my foodie tour guide on my last Iloilo trip, Chef Ram Villanueva, who has a culinary show on GMA Network in Iloilo.
Baye-baye
We are all accustomed to the biscocho, for which Iloilo is also known. But on the road leading to the city coming from the airport, there is a row of kiosks/stands that have another native delicacy called the baye-baye. It is dirt cheap: P20 for a pack of four! But the flavors are priceless. It tastes like espasol, sweet because its base is glutinous rice but in a very plain and natural way, with the flavors of coconut very much present. It is also shaped cylindrically but is thin and very compact.
Roberto’s Siopao
This restaurant was founded in 1978 and has been packed ever since. Roberto is the name of one of the brothers of the owner but the siopao recipe is their dad’s. They have variations of siopao but I believe that what makes it different from other siopaos is that each bun is packed. It is not your usual asado siopao because the fillings are what some call “Chinese-style,” i.e. with egg, ham and even chorizo. The inside is not as filled as I wished it would be, i.e. there are portions where there is more flour than filling. But overall, it is very satisfying.
Breakthrough
This is one of the landmark restaurants in Iloilo and a must-see for all foodies. It is a simple restaurant with a karinderya-style setting and an over-the-counter ordering system. But once seated, you will appreciate the breeze that hits your face as well as the waves and coconut trees that are practically right by your side.
But people do not go to Breakthrough for the native ambiance. It’s the food that has made an impact. If it’s in season, make sure to order the diwal. The diwal is a bivalve that appears bisexual because it looks like it’s part oyster and part squid. The flavors of the sea hit you in the mouth: slightly salty, smooth, slightly gummy.
You will also appreciate their lechon. Claude Tayag has said that the best lechon in the Philippines is from Iloilo and I can see why. Aside from the key ingredient of tanglad or lemongrass for lechon from this side of the Philippines, another distinguishing trait of the Iloilo lechon is the skin. There’s something about Iloilo marinade that we Metro Manila peeps must pick up on (I have heard that the secret to Tatoy’s chicken inasal is also the marinade, in which the chicken is soaked for at least six hours). And the skin is so crispy, with the underlying pork fat so soft and thick right underneath the crispy skin. It is heavenly, even if the lechon is not chopped in front of you but prechopped and offered in a single serving on a small plate. If you are not worried about a heart attack, pair the lechon with their aligue rice. The crabfat is so rich and sharp; in fact it’s a meal on its own.
Ted’s Batchoy
For Chef Ram, nothing beats this batchoy. And he’s right. This restaurant dates back to as early as 1945. If you have a lifetime that has survived 11 presidents (in 1946, the president was Sergio Osmeña), you must be doing something right. What they are doing right is the broth, whose trade secret Ram believes is the bagoong mixture infused into it although I did not taste the bagoong at all. Also adding flavor is the utak or cow’s brain that is thrown in, aside from the liver. Recently, the restaurant has also started bottling a chili sauce which, if you add a small amount to the batchoy, gives it a full flavor that even presidents would savor and enjoy.
Barrio Inasal and Tatoy’s
For chicken inasal, forget Mang Inasal. The best chicken inasal is in Tatoy’s. As I said earlier, the secret is said to be in the marinade and the length of time they soak the chicken in it. Chef Ram, however, argues that Barrio Inasal’s chicken is better precisely because the flavor of the chicken is not overpowered by the flavor of the marinade. I must concede that he is right about this – except that I still appreciate the flavors from the marinade of Tatoy’s better than just plain chicken.
At Barrio Inasal, though, you can expect your chicken to be incredibly juicy, which is probably why they have been around for over 30 years now.
Dulgies
For those who want to indulge, Dulgies is an interesting dessert place to visit. The specialties are not necessarily excellent. The Tres Leches is a little too sweet. It comes in an adorable glass and is a mix of evaporated, condensed and fresh milk. The taste of the condensed milk is very apparent. The chocolate cake is ordinary, although satisfactorily moist. What makes this restaurant stand out is that it is cute! It has pink interiors reminiscent of Sonja’s Cupcakes in Serendra and has cute signs leading to the ladies room that reads “Le Toilet.” Cute for high school or college date or just plain great conversation over a cup of coffee.
Luis Linaga
If you need to food trip after a night of drinking (and Ilonggos are known for their alcohol tolerance!), Luis is open 24 hours and serves their version of nilagang baboy which they simply call Linaga. You can order Unod, which means only meat; or order Halo Halo, which means they will also throw in the intestines and other parts selective tongues would not appreciate. I went for the Halo Halo, of course, and appreciated every sip and bite. It reminded me more of sinigang sa sampaloc than plain old nilaga and learned that this is because the soup uses batwan, a souring ingredient distinct to Iloilo.
The next time you’re in Iloilo, make sure to bring your appetite and wear gartered pants. You are bound to overeat. The best thing about Iloilo food tripping is that you can eat so much with just a few bucks. You will not need more than P200 at any of the restaurants mentioned above!
Here are some of the originals as shown to me by my foodie tour guide on my last Iloilo trip, Chef Ram Villanueva, who has a culinary show on GMA Network in Iloilo.
Baye-baye
We are all accustomed to the biscocho, for which Iloilo is also known. But on the road leading to the city coming from the airport, there is a row of kiosks/stands that have another native delicacy called the baye-baye. It is dirt cheap: P20 for a pack of four! But the flavors are priceless. It tastes like espasol, sweet because its base is glutinous rice but in a very plain and natural way, with the flavors of coconut very much present. It is also shaped cylindrically but is thin and very compact.
Roberto’s Siopao
This restaurant was founded in 1978 and has been packed ever since. Roberto is the name of one of the brothers of the owner but the siopao recipe is their dad’s. They have variations of siopao but I believe that what makes it different from other siopaos is that each bun is packed. It is not your usual asado siopao because the fillings are what some call “Chinese-style,” i.e. with egg, ham and even chorizo. The inside is not as filled as I wished it would be, i.e. there are portions where there is more flour than filling. But overall, it is very satisfying.
Breakthrough
This is one of the landmark restaurants in Iloilo and a must-see for all foodies. It is a simple restaurant with a karinderya-style setting and an over-the-counter ordering system. But once seated, you will appreciate the breeze that hits your face as well as the waves and coconut trees that are practically right by your side.
But people do not go to Breakthrough for the native ambiance. It’s the food that has made an impact. If it’s in season, make sure to order the diwal. The diwal is a bivalve that appears bisexual because it looks like it’s part oyster and part squid. The flavors of the sea hit you in the mouth: slightly salty, smooth, slightly gummy.You will also appreciate their lechon. Claude Tayag has said that the best lechon in the Philippines is from Iloilo and I can see why. Aside from the key ingredient of tanglad or lemongrass for lechon from this side of the Philippines, another distinguishing trait of the Iloilo lechon is the skin. There’s something about Iloilo marinade that we Metro Manila peeps must pick up on (I have heard that the secret to Tatoy’s chicken inasal is also the marinade, in which the chicken is soaked for at least six hours). And the skin is so crispy, with the underlying pork fat so soft and thick right underneath the crispy skin. It is heavenly, even if the lechon is not chopped in front of you but prechopped and offered in a single serving on a small plate. If you are not worried about a heart attack, pair the lechon with their aligue rice. The crabfat is so rich and sharp; in fact it’s a meal on its own.
Ted’s Batchoy
For Chef Ram, nothing beats this batchoy. And he’s right. This restaurant dates back to as early as 1945. If you have a lifetime that has survived 11 presidents (in 1946, the president was Sergio Osmeña), you must be doing something right. What they are doing right is the broth, whose trade secret Ram believes is the bagoong mixture infused into it although I did not taste the bagoong at all. Also adding flavor is the utak or cow’s brain that is thrown in, aside from the liver. Recently, the restaurant has also started bottling a chili sauce which, if you add a small amount to the batchoy, gives it a full flavor that even presidents would savor and enjoy.
Barrio Inasal and Tatoy’s
For chicken inasal, forget Mang Inasal. The best chicken inasal is in Tatoy’s. As I said earlier, the secret is said to be in the marinade and the length of time they soak the chicken in it. Chef Ram, however, argues that Barrio Inasal’s chicken is better precisely because the flavor of the chicken is not overpowered by the flavor of the marinade. I must concede that he is right about this – except that I still appreciate the flavors from the marinade of Tatoy’s better than just plain chicken.
At Barrio Inasal, though, you can expect your chicken to be incredibly juicy, which is probably why they have been around for over 30 years now.Dulgies
For those who want to indulge, Dulgies is an interesting dessert place to visit. The specialties are not necessarily excellent. The Tres Leches is a little too sweet. It comes in an adorable glass and is a mix of evaporated, condensed and fresh milk. The taste of the condensed milk is very apparent. The chocolate cake is ordinary, although satisfactorily moist. What makes this restaurant stand out is that it is cute! It has pink interiors reminiscent of Sonja’s Cupcakes in Serendra and has cute signs leading to the ladies room that reads “Le Toilet.” Cute for high school or college date or just plain great conversation over a cup of coffee.
Luis Linaga
If you need to food trip after a night of drinking (and Ilonggos are known for their alcohol tolerance!), Luis is open 24 hours and serves their version of nilagang baboy which they simply call Linaga. You can order Unod, which means only meat; or order Halo Halo, which means they will also throw in the intestines and other parts selective tongues would not appreciate. I went for the Halo Halo, of course, and appreciated every sip and bite. It reminded me more of sinigang sa sampaloc than plain old nilaga and learned that this is because the soup uses batwan, a souring ingredient distinct to Iloilo.
The next time you’re in Iloilo, make sure to bring your appetite and wear gartered pants. You are bound to overeat. The best thing about Iloilo food tripping is that you can eat so much with just a few bucks. You will not need more than P200 at any of the restaurants mentioned above!
Chef Ram Villanueva’s family owns and runs Cindy’s Catering (tel. 0927-3851778). Catch him on GMA TV 6 in Iloilo on the show entitled “Arangkada Morning Show Food Trip.”Text and Photos from INQUIRER.NET
Iloilo's Local Flavours
By Margaux Salcedo Philippine Daily Inquirer
By Margaux Salcedo Philippine Daily Inquirer